The Surprising History of the Button (It Started as Jewellery)

You fasten a dozen of them a day without a thought. Yet for thousands of years the button held nothing closed — it was pure ornament. The thing that made it useful is the part nobody thinks about.

Vintage sewing notions — buttons, threads and scissors on a surface
The buttonhole, not the button, was the real invention — and it arrived surprisingly late.

Consider the button. You will operate several before lunch, almost certainly without looking, the fingers doing the work while the mind is elsewhere. It is one of the most quietly successful objects ever designed: cheap, durable, intuitive, unchanged in essentials for centuries. And for most of its history, it did not do its job at all.

A decoration first

The earliest buttons we know of, thousands of years old, were not fasteners. They were ornaments — sewn onto clothing to display wealth and status, made from shell, bone, gold and stone. They closed nothing. Garments of the period were held together with brooches, pins, belts and lacing. The button was jewellery that happened to be round.

This is the part that surprises people: the object existed for a very long time before anyone paired it with the thing that makes it work.

The real invention was the hole

The button became a fastener only when someone cut a precise slit to receive it — the buttonhole. It sounds trivial. It was transformative. Reliable buttonholes appear in Europe in the medieval period, and clothing changed almost immediately. Garments could now be close-fitting and adjustable, put on and taken off easily, tailored to the body. The buttonhole did for clothes what the hinge did for doors.

Suddenly buttons multiplied. Rows of them ran down sleeves and fronts, first as conspicuous luxury — more buttons meant more wealth — and then, as manufacture cheapened, as ordinary utility. The decoration had become an engine of fashion.

“The button is a small lesson in design: an object can wait centuries for the one companion invention that finally makes it useful.”

Why buttons still look like buttons

What is striking is how little the basic form has changed. A four-hole sew-through button from two hundred years ago works perfectly on a modern shirt. Zips, snaps, hook-and-loop and magnets have all arrived to compete, and each has its place, but none has retired the button. It is repairable with a needle and thread, costs almost nothing, survives the wash, and tells you at a glance how to use it.

So the next time one comes loose, consider sewing it back on rather than tossing the shirt. You will be performing one of the oldest small acts of making there is — and keeping company with everyone who, for a few thousand years, has fussed over these little discs that once held nothing together at all.

James Whitfield

Objects & Collecting, BlueClay Studio

James writes about the histories and hidden value of everyday objects.